Author Topic: Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank - Done!!  (Read 1540 times)

Offline goodfellow

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Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank - Done!!
« on: October 23, 2016, 05:56:52 PM »
I wasn't going to post this because fuel tanks should really never be fixed unless they are for a special car or truck. Most of the time it pays to replace the fuel tank when it has leaks. That said, I decided to fix this one because a new one would have been around $500, and that was just a little too much.

NOTE: For safety purposes, I didn't post the entire detailed procedure because I don't want anyone trying this themselves unless they are trained to do it. If you're not trained in the cleaning, inert gassing and soldering procedures then you should take it to a specialized shop that is qualified to do this work.

Jaguar E-Type gas tanks are notorious for leaking at the lower inner corner. The reason is that condensation accumulates in this area and the OEM fuel tank cushion pads that are installed in this area absorb the condensate and wick the moisture to cause rust.



Look at the pitting -- I don't even have to strip the paint to tell that there are pinholes underneath that pitting.

I first removed the sending unit and dropped a chain into that part of the baffle. Shaking and turning the tank over and over will knock a lot of the interior rust and corrosion loose to expose more of the damaged areas. Then I strip the exterior paint with a wire wheel -- and PRESTO!! -- lots of pinholes and enough pitting to cause many more pinholes in the future.







The entire area will have to be stripped to bare metal and a patch installed.



This is 1/16" lead sheet that I keep around for gas tank soldering. I cut an appropriate patch to size with tin snips and start to prep the sheet.





The bulk sheet must be made stretchable by hammering and flattening sheet until it becomes wider, thinner and more flexible. It takes a flat faced hammer to expand and stretch the lead into a proper patch. Then the patch is formed to match contours of the lower tank corners. At this point you can form it pretty much by hand.



Then the metal is first cleaned with a strong solvent and then the area is tinned with some body soldering "tinning butter"



Next I use my propane torch and a lead body solder bar to solder the patch along its seams. Once the soldering is done, I give it a quick scuff with a 60 grit sanding disc and make sure all the seams are nicely filled in.







Done -- took about an hour to lead this patch in. Finally I filled the tank with water and will let it sit overnight over a paper towel to see if there are pinholes in the leaded patch seam.

Although it only took and hour to solder, to prep the tank for this procedure took a lot of time over this last week, and I wouldn't recommend anyone trying this without knowing the proper safety procedure and techniques. Things can go seriously "BOOM" if this isn't done properly and by the book.



« Last Edit: November 05, 2016, 05:30:29 PM by goodfellow »

Offline Muddy

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Re: Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank -
« Reply #1 on: October 23, 2016, 08:03:27 PM »
Would a poly replacement be available/more affordable?
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Offline goodfellow

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Re: Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank -
« Reply #2 on: October 23, 2016, 09:23:17 PM »
Would a poly replacement be available/more affordable?

Not that I know of Tim --

Anything E-Type Jaguar is usually very expensive; even aftermarket stuff is outrageous.

Offline brslk

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Re: Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank -
« Reply #3 on: October 23, 2016, 11:22:24 PM »
Good job Ray. I've done a few in place with a hose to the exhaust and I was still pretty puckered in the rectal region.
I'm just a guy in a garage with some tools...

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Offline goodfellow

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Re: Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank -
« Reply #4 on: October 23, 2016, 11:31:00 PM »
Good job Ray. I've done a few in place with a hose to the exhaust and I was still pretty puckered in the rectal region.

LOL Bruce  -- yup, the "puckering" never goes away when doing this kind of work. That's probably a good thing; keeps you on your toes.

Offline goodfellow

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Re: Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank -
« Reply #5 on: November 05, 2016, 05:29:17 PM »
Time to finish this project -- I used POR- Fuel tank Sealer inside the tank and out. It leaves a great rustproof finish. Finally I used Rustoleum Black Hammertone paint to cover the exterior of the tank. If used in direct sunlight, this hammertone paint will flash quickly and leave a very hard shine.





First coats of hammertone over the POR







A great finish -- the sun really baked this paint to a hard finish. This is the soldered section and it looks great.





Ready for installation -- onward!!!

« Last Edit: November 05, 2016, 05:44:03 PM by goodfellow »

Offline Muddy

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Re: Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank - Done!!
« Reply #6 on: November 05, 2016, 06:37:37 PM »
Great job Ray!
"And on the 8th day, God looked down on his planned paradise and said, "I need a caretaker." So God made a farmer."

Offline torqueman2002

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Re: Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank - Done!!
« Reply #7 on: November 05, 2016, 10:30:55 PM »
 thumbsup2 thumbsup2

Thanks for the RustOleum Hammertone painting tips. I like it, but get inconsistent results. I will try your method next time.  billcat
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Offline goodfellow

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Re: Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank - Done!!
« Reply #8 on: November 05, 2016, 10:53:27 PM »
thumbsup2 thumbsup2

Thanks for the RustOleum Hammertone painting tips. I like it, but get inconsistent results. I will try your method next time.  billcat

Torqueman -- let me clarify a bit. To get the hammered finish with Rustoleum do exactly the opposite of what I did here. In bright hot sunlight the paint flashes too quickly and will not leave a hammered finish. For a consistent hammered look finish you want to avoid high temps as much as possible.

I used the sun baked heat method to make the paint cure quickly and very hard -- I didn't care about the hammered finish. In fact if you look close -- there isn't much of a hammered finish on this tank -- just a very consistent (and very hard) protective  coating.


Sorry for the confusion --

Offline torqueman2002

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Re: Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank - Done!!
« Reply #9 on: November 06, 2016, 11:06:41 AM »
GF - thanks for the clarification.

I've experienced what others have mentioned - a very long cure time.

The last time I used RustOleum Hammered paint, I waited 48 hours and placed the painted parts in the oven at 225F for 30 mins. Baking the paint helped the paint to harden faster than air curing, but the parts still needed care in handling to avoid scratches.

Also, I have seen the paint at different times dry with glossy and non-glossy areas. I'm not a painter, but I beleive that is due to conditions that are too hot and/or dry.

I try not to paint in the direct sun.

Again, thanks for the information. Any further help will be appreciated.
 th-smile
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Offline brslk

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Re: Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank - Done!!
« Reply #10 on: November 06, 2016, 09:33:28 PM »
That looks great Ray!
I'm just a guy in a garage with some tools...

Bruce.

Offline goodfellow

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Re: Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank - Done!!
« Reply #11 on: November 06, 2016, 10:21:45 PM »
Thanks Bruce -- it took a lot of time but I saved a few $$. Didn't need to spend that cash right before the Holidays.

Offline goodfellow

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Re: Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank - Done!!
« Reply #12 on: November 06, 2016, 10:24:40 PM »
BTW -- that sliver mass in the lower right hand corner is not lead solder -- it's just aluminum foil that I used to cover the openings for swishing the tank with POR-15 sealer after the leading. Some one thought it was a mass of lead running off the tank and contaminating the ground.

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Re: Fixing an E-Type Fuel Tank - Done!!
« Reply #12 on: November 06, 2016, 10:24:40 PM »

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