Author Topic: Import Jack Repair Tutorial  (Read 15764 times)

Offline Hiball

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Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« on: January 29, 2011, 03:30:52 AM »
Well after numerous requests ive decided to put together a tutorial that will assist you do it yourselfers resurect/maintain your Taiwan Jack. This tutorial will cover the Main version of these jacks and i will try to include any variances that you might encounter. Again your jack might be different in color or possible fastener type but it will share the same hydraulic system along with location of key componenets for your typical Overseas 2-3 ton floor jack, This doesnt include Quick Lift Jacks as they will be a tad bit different and include another valve system. If you have any questions feel free to contact me with a Picture and I will assist you. Enjoy GJ and Have a Happy Holidays from the Coil Family.



This is your typical Overseas design that i had sitting in the back of the shop, I had cabbaged the rear casters off this jack and it was a perfect candidate for this write up.


Well to start off you will need to remove the handle assembly.


Once both upper bolts are removed you can remove the Handle assembly and the handle return spring, On some jacks you will have 2 of these, 1 on each side. This particular model only has 1.


Handle assembly Gone.


Next you will remove the lower bolts, these are fastened by a  allen head so you can get to them without removing the wheels. While you are here you will notice the silver bar at the rear of the jack this is just a stiffening brace held on by nuts that protrude thru the frame, this needs to come out.


Once you remove all bolts you can pick up on the rear of the frame and slide it forward, This will expose the next step.



Using a Prybar or Screwdriver slip the return spring off, On some jacks there will be 2 of these, This one has only 1.



Using a Cotter Key remover tool or side cutters Pull the key out.

We are now ready to head over to the vise.


Once secured in the Vise you can pull the Pump straight out, There will be no seals on it as they are inside Jack.




Next step is to remove the Release valve, It will be a Metric sized Hex.. Dont be a Donkey like me and use a 15/16" for Pictures.. LOL


This particular style uses a flat recessed seat that uses a ball to seal the unit, There are different models and yours might have a Needle valve instead of this one. If thats the case there wont be a small ball as indicated by the next Pic. Remove the ball and keep it seperate.



Next step is to take the working valve apart, This particular model uses a  allen head, Most use standard screwdriver Head.


After removing the socket head you will need a small pen magnet to remove the inner workings. This particular model uses 2 balls, the biggest ball on top and the smaller ball in the bottom seat. (keep these ball seperate from other parts) There will also be other styles in different models etc, Some will use spacers in between the balls and even springs can be found etc. Regardless keep track of how things come apart and in which order and you will be good.


The next valve to the right of the release is your overload valve, i cant tell you how many jacks ive had brought in that the only thing that was wrong was this valve had backed itself off and wouldnt let the jack lift the apropriate tonnage. Anyways First you must take the Dust cover off, Sometimes it will have a warning "DO NOT ADJUST" sticker on it. As you can see there is another Standard Screwdriver Socket inside the Valve, Using a small enough screwdriver so that you dont muck in the internal threads up. IMPORTANT****** First count the revolutions it takes to tighten the inside set screw completely down, On this particular jack it took 6. That is too many and as i stated earlier these do back off over time. If your jack was working fine except for leaking write down how many revolutions it took and upon reinstallation set it back to factory settings. If you dont remember or fail to head this warning 2 full turns back from full set is a good starting point. The overload is very important and is designed to keep you from overloading the jack and possibly rupturing a seal. This is why it is important you follow the tonnage guidlines and DO NOT crank this down all the way. There is NO way to set this Properly without having a Test station.


This is the workings of a typical overload, You will have a small ball that sits in the seat, A Upper seat with a tit to sit inside the heavy spring, Then top piece and as you can guess the tit goes down inside the spring and set screw tightens down on top of the flat.  Sometimes theses are tricky to reinstall so here is a hint: Insert the small ball verifying that its is in the seat, Grab some wheel bearing grease or a heavy grease, Dab a little on the tip, insert into the spring and do the same for the top piece then drop as 1 piece down int the valve. Ive seen people get that first piece in there sideways and then when you crank the set screw down it damages things. Take your time and visually check what your doing.


Next you will need a Pipe Wrench or the apropriate Socket to remove the Tank nut. Keeping a pan handy to catch the oil.


Once you unthread the Tank nut the pressure will be released from the resevoir and you dissasemble.


And here we are at Paydirt, We finally got to the Ram Cup to verify what version we have. This particular version is the Oring sitting inside the Hollow Cup shell. It by far is the Most common found in 95% of your newer jacks and is Not the Best designed sealing surface, but it is Cheap.


Verify that there is no internal Damage, The jack was full of oil so there wasnt any Rust or Pitting. Looks Good:thumbup:


Ok now that we have the jack apart lets get working on removing the seals, 1st off lets remove the Orings on the Pump. Using a small Pic (I prefer the Snap on angle) Dig the Orings out being carefull not to damage the Backups, As they can probably be re-used. This particular jack has 2 Oring grooves machined inside, Some only have 1. If you have 2 the order of the Oring/backup is ORING on bottom in each groove and beveled side down Backup on top of the Oring. Lost? Keep Following?



Its hard to determine by these pics but this is a backup, Its not broken its split to allow easier installation. A back up has a flat side and a beveled side to allow the oring to sit inside and keep it properly shaped under pressure.

This Picture shows everything that came out of the Pump side.

Next seal is the Tank Nut seal, Using a Pic Remove this and set aside.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2012, 01:03:25 PM by Hiball »

Offline Hiball

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Re: Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2011, 03:31:57 AM »

Next seal is the Main Ram seal, IMPORTANT***** Make sure you pry from the inside Out as illustrated, Do Not get into that outer shell on the sealing surface. These are Harder to find and generally dont go bad unless someone gets rough with them. You will need to inspect the sealing lip to make sure there isnt any splits, rough areas etc.

NOTE: I replace all these Cheap seals with Quality Ucups and Keep all the Common sizes in stock.


Once you remove the Oring the outer shell will slip right off. You now have your jack completely tore down and your ready to find replacement seals. I recomend finding a local Hydraulic shop and they should have everything you require. If your jack is Older 15+ years you might have a Ucup on the end instead of the one shown. If it has good suction and seal by sliding it in and out of the cylinder i wouldnt mess with replacing it unless it is extremely hard and showing stress cracks etc. Also dont try and remove it unless your intentions are to replace because they snap on and with any age they break off.  Im sure ive left something out so if you have any questions feel free to ask and will get it figured out. Enjoy the Write up and i hope you guys can benefit from this.

Hiball.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2012, 01:00:16 PM by Hiball »

Offline Matt_T

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Re: Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2011, 04:35:15 AM »


Am wondering about your use of SAE sizes on import jacks which I'd expect to be metric. This picture looks like a 3/8" key in a 10mm hole judging by how far off the corners the key is making contact. I suspect what you're calling 15/16" and 3/8" are really 24mm and 10mm. Other than that an excellent tutorial thumbsup2

Offline Hiball

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Re: Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2011, 05:17:56 AM »
Am wondering about your use of SAE sizes on import jacks which I'd expect to be metric. This picture looks like a 3/8" key in a 10mm hole judging by how far off the corners the key is making contact. I suspect what you're calling 15/16" and 3/8" are really 24mm and 10mm. Other than that an excellent tutorial thumbsup2

 sctatcherhead This tutorial was mainly for the Hydraulic aspect of Rebuilding Your Import Jack. I can promise you that PowerKraft Open End wrench has been used enough to allow for the difference between a 15/16" and 24MM, The 3/8 was a bit too small but at the time it was handy and that Cap isnt too tight.. But for the Record.. Use the Proper size to prevent damage to fasteners.
« Last Edit: January 29, 2011, 05:28:10 AM by Hiball »

Offline goodfellow

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Re: Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2011, 08:21:41 AM »
That was a great write-up Hiball!! Thank you. I will definitely "sticky" this information. Thank you for taking the time to document the procedure so well.

Offline Uncle Buck

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Re: Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2011, 09:13:03 AM »
That was premium hiball, I know I learned a few things from that one.  thumbsup2
You boys better hold on cause i'm gonna have to stand on it!

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Offline fotoguy

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Re: Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« Reply #6 on: February 04, 2011, 07:55:39 PM »
Hiball , thanks for bringing this over..
If ya can't pour piss out of a boot, with the directions written on the bottom, maybe you should sit down to pee.

Offline budro6969

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Re: Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« Reply #7 on: August 14, 2011, 07:49:38 PM »
That was great to see.  I have been absent for a while, so this is new to me. I have never been inside a jack before.  8) Thanks, Bud....

Offline Don Maddock

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Re: Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« Reply #8 on: January 10, 2012, 01:03:56 PM »
How do you put oil back in this jack?

Offline Uncle Buck

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Re: Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« Reply #9 on: January 10, 2012, 01:13:03 PM »
How do you put oil back in this jack?


You remove that little rubber plug that is curved and setting on the top of the bottle. Once the plug is removed you can add some jack oil. Do not overfill it though, leave just a little room for air. You can access this plug easily even if the jack is fully assembled.


« Last Edit: January 10, 2012, 01:22:37 PM by Uncle Buck »
You boys better hold on cause i'm gonna have to stand on it!

NEED A 1/2" BONNEY STREAMLINE COMBINATION AND ANY OVER 13/16" TOO!



Andrew Jackson quote: But you must remember, my fellow-citizens, that eternal vigilance by the people is the price of liberty, and that you must pay the price if you wish to secure the blessing.

Offline Don Maddock

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Re: Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« Reply #10 on: January 10, 2012, 05:22:59 PM »
Thanks a bunch Uncle Buck 8)

Offline Uncle Buck

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Re: Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« Reply #11 on: January 10, 2012, 05:29:23 PM »
Thanks a bunch Uncle Buck 8)

Good luck with it, they are always an adventure!
You boys better hold on cause i'm gonna have to stand on it!

NEED A 1/2" BONNEY STREAMLINE COMBINATION AND ANY OVER 13/16" TOO!



Andrew Jackson quote: But you must remember, my fellow-citizens, that eternal vigilance by the people is the price of liberty, and that you must pay the price if you wish to secure the blessing.

Offline w98seeng

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Re: Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« Reply #12 on: February 21, 2012, 03:18:43 PM »
I was at an auction on Saturday and I bid $35 on a nice floor jack and won it. To my surprise, I didn't win the jack I thought I was bidding on, I won the piece of crap next to it.  :'( Next time I will make sure I see what I am bidding on, none of this bidding over people's shoulders any more.

So, I was looking around for a tutorial on fixing the release valve on my crap jack and Google led me here. Great tutorial, many thanks Hiball. beerdude

One question. I took the Release valve out of my jack as the valve would not move. There are two parts to the valve, (my terminology) the shaft (with the square bottom) and the nut that the shaft fits into. When I got the jack, the nut was tight and the shaft would not turn. I cleaned it out and when the nut is tight, it still will not turn. When the nut is 1/4 turn loose, the shaft will turn but just spins free, it will not tighten.

How does the release valve work? It has to press down on the ball bearing at the bottom, and when I turn the jack handle, it just spins free. Shouldn't there be threads of some kind for the shaft to press down on the bearing? I have the washer (with the square hole) and the rubber washer, both in good shape, there is also an o-ring at the top of the shaft.

Is this gibberish? Am I rambling?

Anyway, hope you have an answer.

Thanks,
Ian

« Last Edit: February 21, 2012, 08:12:38 PM by w98seeng »

Offline TexasT

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Re: Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« Reply #13 on: September 22, 2012, 12:17:52 PM »


While i am not jack expert, and not even fully familiar, it looks to me like there are threads on the shaft with the square block at the end. This leads me to believe the retaining nut on the gear up top needs to be tight and there is some type of anti spin on the gear that turns something up in there and 'drives' the square bottom shaft down to pump the jack up.
Rich

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Re: Import Jack Repair Tutorial
« Reply #13 on: September 22, 2012, 12:17:52 PM »

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